Village Experience, Hiriwadunna

Mind the snake on the road!

As I sat on the patio of my room and enjoyed my morning cup of tea, I took in all the sounds and watched the squirrels inch closer towards me. A wonderful way to start the day and reflect on the things I’ve got up too since my arrival in Sri Lanka.

Jay got in at almost noon from Colombo as I checked out and headed towards Kalum’s place. Kalum lives in a small village in Hiriwadunna, Habarana. He organises village tours or experiences rather, for those who wish to experience it. This was one of the gifts Jay gave me hence I don’t know how much it costs, but it’s an experience I wouldn’t forget so easily.

Kalum, who lives with his family, was kind enough to let us keep our bags at his home for the night as we both packed light for our over night stay in the village. 

First was lunch. Just out back from Kalum’s home, one of the villagers had prepared an elaborate meal. The hut we sat in was made from wood, with mud mixed in cow dung, for walls. According to Jay (who is an interior designer and a tree hugger) that the mixture of these two is what keeps the hut cool on a hot day, and it’s true, it was very cool on the inside. The food was prepared in clay pots over an open wood-burning stove; This makes the food taste a little different, also the water boiled on these types of stove have a different flavour to it too.

Lunch was a spread of local produce, mainly vegetables and fresh water fish from the lake close by. It’s served on lotus leaf as compared to banana leaf as it is found abundant at the lake. In fact the lotus leaf is studier compare to a banana leaf. The food was delicious but a tad bit flat, as by this point, after all that chilli intake, my tongue got used to really spicy food. 

Finally the confession arrives that the chef had though that I was this tourist who can’t tolerate spicy food but she did place a small plate full of fried dried chillies! Guess who was happily scoffing them down?    

Open wood burning stove.

After lunch, Jay casually mentions,

“We’re going on a go-kart after this” 

      “Really? A go-kart?? Wow!”

How did they manage to get a go-kart in this place? Like seriously? Here I was thinking that after lunch, we would race down in our go-karts to the lake and take the little paddleboat across. Yes, I had this picture of me strapped into a go-kart speeding my way on the red earthen road, racing along with Jay in tow… until I saw two bulls attached to a pull cart. JAY!!! When she said go-karts what she really meant was bull carts. What was I thinking? Why would they have go-karts as part of the village experience! Silly me.

On the carts we went, with the gentle sway and the bump of the stones, we were on our way to the lake. The sights and smell registered well into my brain. The smells of sweet blades of cut grass, coming from the paddy fields, and smell of the cow, swatting away flies with its tails, and the smell of fresh clean air was permanently booked and shelved in my head. It’s the smell of childhood to me, growing up in a suburb that was once ever so clean and green, which is now over developed and nature slowly depleting, I ride brought back some memories.    

The wonderful woman who prepared out elaborate lunch.

Termite hills are common and they are everywhere, also snakes take over these termite nests at times. One crossed our path and went straight into one of these nests and we were about to past the nest just inches away from ME! The farmer, who accompanied us, without turning back, assured me that they are harmless. These snakes hunt rats and other smaller animals, which in turns helps keep the crops in check and they do not harm humans at all, provided you don’t bother them of course.    

A little girl playing among the crops.

I’m sure we could have walked quicker and saved the poor beast from pulling us, but 20 minutes later we got to our destination. A short walk in the woods, we passed by a small little alter that was apparently used by the ruling queen back in the day, as a praying alter. The lake we are about to cross was once her private bathing pool. Talk about luxury!

Now at the edge of the lake another farmer was waiting for us on a little paddleboat. Oh, before I forget, my tuk tuk driver accompanied us on this journey since Kalum couldn’t see us this far, he sent Darkshana as ‘security’. Talk about being treated like a V.I.P.!    

The scenic ride across the lake.

The lake is just breath taking.  With the afternoon sun slowly turning to evening, the rays it cast over the lake made everything look mystical and serene. Everything seemed to have its place; nothing is tarnished by modern day technology or defiled by man. It was just so peaceful. The sounds of the different birds and insects, the parakeets and other lake wild life seem not afraid of us. We were inches away from this one bird and it didn’t seem to bother to move, but rather observed us.

After a short manoeuvre around the lust growth of the lake, we got to our little tree house, in front of a plot of farmland. It’s not a big clearing but a rather small one, where they grew paddy, onions and beans. We were greeted with herbal tea, served in coconut shells, nature’s cup, with jaggery one the side. Jaggery is a type of palm sugar, commonly found in Asia, where its used in making desserts, sweets and sometimes in drinks. It’s custom here that you bite a little jaggery before you drink the tea. You might think it’s better to mix them in the cup with your tea, but no, it’s better doing it this way.    

A spot of tea?

Now these tree houses have a little kitchen area just down below it, and it is close to the crops. The farmer(s) staying up here would get up, from time to time, at night to make some noise, light up firecrackers to ward off elephants from walking over their farm during their migration at night. Some of the farmers also have their own alarm system, consisting of strings and some bottles tied together, to warn them of elephant intrusion.

We took an evening stroll with another fellow farmer who gave us a quick tour of surround areas.  We sat down for a cup of tea, but this time on a treetop, as we watched the setting sun paint the sky in hues of blue and orange, and then a subtle pink, here are there, before completely turning dark blue. As we made out way back at base camp, we watched the stars twinkle while listening to the crickets in the distance. 

Beautiful sunset.

Kalum soon joined us with two other farmers who are to keep us company, or rather watch over us and cook for us for the night. A huge bon fire was lit up, while the wind kept the mosquitos at bay. As our chefs were busy prepping dinner under the kerosene lamp lit kitchen, we sat by the fireplace, watching the logs burn, and the dogs slept around it.

There is something about watching a fire, the way the logs crackled, the sound it makes, is soothing. Reminds me of the days back in France. Talk about reminiscing.  

Being out in nature, surrounded by its sound, I felt so at peace. It took me a while to turn my mind off, as when I do nothing, my brain starts working on all the things I needed to do when I get home, the meetings I needed to attend, the appointment that needs to be made, who to chase for this and that and the list goes on. Shutting down the mind in a challenge but I did manage to in the end and it was just bliss. 

The fire place outdoor.

Hero as I was, I should have taken take quick evening wash when there was light and not at this hour in the dark! But regardless, we both did take a quick wash in the lake. As cold as the water was, it was refreshing and clear. It was a little strange taking a wash with a wind up torch, in the dark by the lake. If you have an active imagination and watched too many horror movies, you want might want to skip this wash-in-the-dark.

The bonfire was great and it kept me nice and toasty warm before dinner was served. Home made roti and coconut sambol! And the chilli was full on too! As if the night couldn’t get any better.

Our little treetop accommodation came with a mosquito net and a clear view of the farm. Now after all the tea, and food and more tea, I desperately needed the toilet. The thought of parking my bum in the bush, with creepy crawlies around, was starting to hit warp speed. But fear not, as Kalum comes to the rescue! Hah! That man is the best. He had built a make shift toilet for guest which is pretty much a hole in the ground with ‘walls’ and an open view of the forest. Better than parking my bum in some random open bush in the dark!

Life on the lake as the sunrises.

The last few days were really hot and the nights we warm, so I figured I’d leave my jumper behind. Smart… so smart. The weather tonight picked up, it was so windy, even with the blanket on, I was cold. Down I went to get my towel; at least it was something to keep me warm through the night and Kalum caught me red handed coming down the ladder. Explained I needed my towel and that everything was fine, but this man who felt responsible for the well being of the two of us, came up a few minutes later with some tarp to cover the front of our tree house from the wind. That way it would keep us warm, and it did. I’m ever so grateful to him, even though he didn’t need too, he did. 

And a hat is made!

In the morning, I got up to the sounds of birds, and a peacock flying by, as I lay in bed on the treetop watching the sunrise. The village life… is the LIFE. You reap what you sow, you enjoy what nature has to offer and your health is in shape! No sitting behind a screen, eating crap, hardly working out and you’re in constant bombardment of false advertising, trying to sell you things you don’t need. What you need is some fresh air, exercise and healthy wholesome food. You’ll live longer too. Not saying that I’ll trade everything I have to live like this but doing this every once in a while, keep one in check.

After brushing my teeth with natural ‘toothbrush’ (certain tree roots are good for your gums, and your tooth paste has some of these root extract in them), and super-sweet-warm milk teas, we got onto the paddleboats and went for a cruise on the lake. It was a cloudy morning and a rather chilly one too; life on the lake was about as awake as us by this time. Birds were all huddled together like how the lotuses and lilies were clustered, and the breeze was blowing to a perfect rhythm; subtle and gentle.  

One of the farmers was pretty nifty with his craft; he made a necklace for Jay and me out of a lily and made us both hats from the lotus pads. Pretty neat. 

Soaking in the serenity of the ambience.

I heard nothing but silence that morning, accompanied by the occasional flutter from a bird’s wing and the sounds of the oars breaking the surface of the water. It was so peaceful… I have never felt so relax and recharged, both physically and mentally. Jay and Rusty, thank you for this experience, it is one I am most grateful for and would never forget!

Next up: The most awaited temple run, Anuradhapura!