An intricate carving on a guarding statue that welcomes the door way.
Jay was with me on this last temple run. I’ve been looking forward to visit Anuradhapura since the time I arrived in Sri Lanka.
The past few nights in the midlands have been hot and humid. But today, the weather has changed quite quickly. It was cloudy and windy so we had to make a quick pit stop to pick up some fabric to wrap myself in. It’s almost a 2-hour ride from Habarana to Anuradhapura. By the time we got there it was almost noon.
We should have been there for before 10am as this place is huge and has a lot to cover. Half a day is better than nothing I’d say! Charitha, our guide (a friend and contact of Rusty’s) met us at the ticketing office, which is attached to the museum. Have been told that Charitha is an excellent guide, and truth be told, he is exceptionally good! It’s about USD 25 to visit the site which also includes the fee for the museum.
The past few nights in the midlands have been hot and humid. But today, the weather has changed quite quickly. It was cloudy and windy so we had to make a quick pit stop to pick up some fabric to wrap myself in. It’s almost a 2-hour ride from Habarana to Anuradhapura. By the time we got there it was almost noon.
We should have been there for before 10am as this place is huge and has a lot to cover. Half a day is better than nothing I’d say! Charitha, our guide (a friend and contact of Rusty’s) met us at the ticketing office, which is attached to the museum. Have been told that Charitha is an excellent guide, and truth be told, he is exceptionally good! It’s about USD 25 to visit the site which also includes the fee for the museum.
It was like having one of my old Art History tutor, taking us on a museum or site tour and telling us about it’s history and being all enthusiastic about it. It was great having him tell us stories of the culture, the social mind-set and the teachings of this beautiful civilization.
It is believed that Anuradhapura was the capital of Sri Lanka from 3 BC to 11 AD, and it was the most stable and durable centers of political power and urban life in South Asia during that period. It has superb town planning for its time and it spans over 42 kilometer square. According to Charitha, it had a population of almost 2 million people.
People still do live on the site, and they live well over a ruin that is yet to be discovered hence UNESCO is trying to relocate them. This will take a long time as to the people living here, this is their home and even though the offer is lucrative, it’s sentimental value that they can’t depart with.
It is believed that Anuradhapura was the capital of Sri Lanka from 3 BC to 11 AD, and it was the most stable and durable centers of political power and urban life in South Asia during that period. It has superb town planning for its time and it spans over 42 kilometer square. According to Charitha, it had a population of almost 2 million people.
People still do live on the site, and they live well over a ruin that is yet to be discovered hence UNESCO is trying to relocate them. This will take a long time as to the people living here, this is their home and even though the offer is lucrative, it’s sentimental value that they can’t depart with.
Everything is calculated, given great thought too and delicately carved. All the steps, you will notice at all the ancient sites have odd numbered steps. Just like if you notice the snake heads behind each guarding status, it also has odd numbered amount of heads.
I have to admit; Anuradhapura is one of the best-reserved ancient civilizations in Sri Lanka I’ve ever seen. This civilization took consideration of everything, from urban planning, to irrigation, right down to sanitation and eco design, they looked into everything and built one great thriving-self-sustaining civilization.
Anuradhapura had many school (referring back to the ancient times) where anyone could come and study. No, they were not monks but student who wore the same robe and attended class in different areas of specialty, like a university. When a person joins the school, depending on how long you would like to stay, you will be treated as equals. No one person is higher from the other, and everyone has to lend a helping hand in doing chorus around the school and other amenities.
I was told that they had students from all over the world, coming to Anuradhapura to attend these schools. Ancient IVY League university I’d say.
Anuradhapura had many school (referring back to the ancient times) where anyone could come and study. No, they were not monks but student who wore the same robe and attended class in different areas of specialty, like a university. When a person joins the school, depending on how long you would like to stay, you will be treated as equals. No one person is higher from the other, and everyone has to lend a helping hand in doing chorus around the school and other amenities.
I was told that they had students from all over the world, coming to Anuradhapura to attend these schools. Ancient IVY League university I’d say.
This is the dining hall where food was served as a buffet. These long narrow boat like basin is where food was served. Hot water filled these basins, and food in trays were placed over it during food service. A bit like our cafeteria where hot water is place at the bottom of each dish to keep it warm.
They had libraries, different school of meditation, and different areas of studies… I was pretty blown away by how advance this civilization was. Take their toilet for example. Now they have given though and some calculation as to how many people they in these schools, and imagine all those thousands of students collectively using the toilet and how much sanitation waste would they have? A lot. So they built a space beneath the toilet ‘seat’ that could contain 3 pots. First pot had charcoal, second has sand and cotton, and the third had another compound (I can’t remember, sorry!) that would filter urine and produce clear and ‘harmless’ water that goes back into the earth.
In Buddhism, one should always consider all living things and shall not bring harm to them. So they have also considered the microorganism in the earth hence creating this filter system.
These pots would be changed every month, and the by-product in the pots is actually used as compost for plants and trees.
Talk about advance technology!!! I’m impressed, now where is our civilization in all this? Hmmm…
In Buddhism, one should always consider all living things and shall not bring harm to them. So they have also considered the microorganism in the earth hence creating this filter system.
These pots would be changed every month, and the by-product in the pots is actually used as compost for plants and trees.
Talk about advance technology!!! I’m impressed, now where is our civilization in all this? Hmmm…
One of the intricate carving on the stone steps.
They also thought over 80 sutras (teachings or specializations) in these schools. And each school has a different aura and vibe that can still be felt. Each place we walked past or over, had a different sort of vibe. I can’t quite explain it; you have to go there to experience what I mean. Plus each school was designed around nature. The school of stone masonry, for example, took care of all the carvings, while the school of horticulture looks after all the gardens and so on and so forth. They even have school in the art of jewelry making.
The carvings on these buildings are beautiful. You would need your own transport to shuttle you from one section to another. You can get a bicycle but it’s a lot to cover on pedal power. We partly walked and took the tuk tuk around the place, and I only covered a fraction of what is more to come.
The carvings on these buildings are beautiful. You would need your own transport to shuttle you from one section to another. You can get a bicycle but it’s a lot to cover on pedal power. We partly walked and took the tuk tuk around the place, and I only covered a fraction of what is more to come.
The carvings on the moonstone represents the four stages in life (Samsara) - growth, energy, power and forbearance. The outer ring of fire represents the never ending life and the pains of passion associated with it. The four animals represent the four noble truths - birth, old age, disease and death. The leafy creeper next to it symbolises worldly desires, which creates little fruits but only foliage. The swans symbolise distinction between good and bad. It is said that the swan is capable of separating out milk from a mixture of water and milk. He who understands or conquers four noble truths can easily filter the good from the bad like the swan filters out milk. Once you are able to achieve that you are capable of attaining the Nirvana, which is the final achievement, represented by the lotus.
We had to leave after a few hours as Jay had to catch a train back to Colombo and I needed to head to Kandy.
Anuradhapura’s visit is not to be rushed, and no guidebook can help you here so do get a guide and please get Charitha to take you. Yes it may sound biased but I doubt anyone could have done a better job than him. And I’m certainly not going to give you a lengthy history lesson (of what I acquired) here, as its only best that you are there and having it told to you then.
I would definitely come back and get the full tour of Anuradhapura and this time I’ll be there at 7am in the morning or when the doors open, as I know it would take a long time to cover the place. The carvings on these ruins are some of the best I’ve seen thus far!
Anuradhapura’s visit is not to be rushed, and no guidebook can help you here so do get a guide and please get Charitha to take you. Yes it may sound biased but I doubt anyone could have done a better job than him. And I’m certainly not going to give you a lengthy history lesson (of what I acquired) here, as its only best that you are there and having it told to you then.
I would definitely come back and get the full tour of Anuradhapura and this time I’ll be there at 7am in the morning or when the doors open, as I know it would take a long time to cover the place. The carvings on these ruins are some of the best I’ve seen thus far!
You'll come across vast amounts of ruins entwined with growth spanning over 42 km square.
Anuradhapura should be on your do-to-list if you visit Sri Lanka! Combine that with a very knowledgeable guide, you’ll enjoy it. Especially if you love ancient history like me.
Up next: Kandy
Up next: Kandy